
We flew from Konya to Izmir, then took a bus to Silchuk, the town closest to the Roman Ruins at Ephesus. The Nilya hotel was built from two Ottoman villas in the center of the old town. The owners also sell Turkish ceramics, jewelry and, of course, rugs. Here's the breakfast courtyard.

On our first day, we visited Ephesus, the ruins of a second-century Roman city. The largest such site in the world. This is the view from the entrance gate. We entered early, before the tour groups arrived.

A small forum for public speaking. Ephesus was the capital of the Roman province of Asia.

The city featured decorated pathways. The hillside was an upper-class residential bloc. The dark structure ahead is the on-site Ephesus Museum.

There are carvings everywhere. The city is laid out along a single main road. It's about a 2-kilometer downhill walk to the bottom gate.

The Roman Empire converted to Christianity during the 4th century CE. The Byzantines liked putting angels in the architecture.

At the halfway point in the walk through Ephesus. Ahead is the Library of Celsus.

Built in the 2nd century CE, the library was a major learning center. Historians estimate that it held 12,000 scrolls.

To the left of the Celsus Library, this gate leads to a large open area in front of the forum.

The Ephesus Forum was constructed in the first century CE. With seating for 30,000 people, it was the largest in the Roman Empire. In the foreground, archaeologists have sorted out building fragments like puzzle pieces.

Our hosts at the Nilya suggested we go to the market. So we did. A short walk away, the streets were closed to car traffic and filled with stalls. Like with the markets in Istanbul and Konya, we were blown away by the sheer amount, variety and quality of stuff.

A vegetable vendor in the market shows off her cabbages.

Not just food, the market has you covered from head to toe.

We didn't visit the Ephesus Museum on site so we went to the in-town branch. Its well-laid-out collection of Greek and Roman artifacts is worth seeing.

Women decapitating their husbands decorate this Roman casket in the Ephesus Museum.

The head of the all powerful Greek God.

The epitome of beauty, the Greek goddess Aphrodite, has lost her head.

Heading up to St. John's Basilica, we pass an excavated Roman ruin. The basilica was built in the 6th century CE by Emperor Justinian I.

The Basilic is believed to be the tomb of St. John the Apostle, one of the original twelve. It remains a pilgrimage site for many Christians.

Above Saint John's Basilica are the ruins of his castle. There's not much inside its impressive walls except more stones to look at.

From Selchuk, we headed back to Istanbul for some last-minute shopping. We stayed at the Hotel Dersaadet. At breakfast, overlooking the Sea of Marmara, two gulls heckle an indifferent cat.